The winner of the Flor de Caña Sustainability Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2024 is a restaurant closely committed to the environment, the economy and society. We spoke to its founder, Billy Wagner.
The name Nobelhart & Schmutzig is in itself a statement of intent. In German, it translates as “noble, hard and dirty”, hinting that there are more contrasts and depth in the gastronomic world than one might imagine. The team at this Berlin eatery is clear that we are what we eat and that eating is a political act, as our food choices impact our society. They promote a respectful and conscious approach to the environment and our fellow human beings, creating a microcosm in which to learn, enjoy and reconnect.
Responsible ingredients and awards
Billy Wagner founded Nobelhart & Schmutzig in 2015 with the mission to highlight local ingredients from small-scale, responsible agriculture. Here they celebrate the region’s natural products, such as kohlrabi from Grete Peschken, rye bread from Brotwerk Domberger and butter from Erdhof Seewalde. In addition, they prioritise high animal welfare standards, have chosen not to serve seafood due to the lack of transparency in the supply chain, and produce artisanal products such as flower sugar, pickles and oils.
Billy Wagner, founder of the project. Editorial credit: Marko Seifert.
The restaurant won its first Michelin star just nine months after opening and later opted not to accept the green Michelin star because it did not have an audit to validate its sustainability. In 2022, it jumped to #17 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, up 28 places from the previous year. In the latest edition of these awards, they received the prestigious award for Best Sustainable Restaurant Flor de Caña 2024.
Founded by Billy Wagner in 2015, Nobelhart & Schmutzig prioritises local ingredients and sustainable production methods.
In relation to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Wagner explained to HORSE that “between 2023 and 2024 we underwent a comprehensive audit by The Sustainable Restaurant Association. We invested significant resources to have a team of experts evaluate our restaurant and work with us to identify strengths and areas for improvement.” In addition, the owner pointed out that the Michelin Green Star is awarded without assessing aspects such as food sourcing, staff remuneration or electricity consumption.
A new gastronomic concept
On 1 April 2024, the restaurant revamped its concept, while maintaining its essential philosophy. They have reduced the price, duration and volume of the menu, which has gone from three to two hours and from ten to six more hearty and rustic dishes, with greater rotation. The new prices range from 115 euros (Tuesday to Thursday) to 130 euros (Friday and Saturday), in contrast to the previous prices, which ranged from 195 to 225 euros for ten small-portion dishes.
The restaurant, in fact, is constantly evolving. As Wagner points out: “Many of the products we work with today didn’t even exist 10 years ago“. During this decade, they have established processes and quality standards with the producers. “For example, we select strawberries not only for their shelf life, but mainly for their taste”. As for the team, there have been significant changes: “We have always had apprentices, but at the beginning they were not paid. Today, we pay them so that everyone can gain their experience at Nobelhart & Schmutzig.
Some of the restaurant’s dishes. Editorial credit: Caroline Prange.
Culinary director Micha Schäfer relies on a team consisting of Arnaldo da Costa Andre, Magdalena Hrovat, Omer Mantin, Alan Schlieben and Moses Jonghyeon Yoon. Aljoscha Füting runs the operations and Juliane Winkler manages the restaurant. The sommelier team consists of Steve Hartzsch, Greta Maiwald and Martyna Plazewska. More than a list of names, this represents a commitment to valuing each person who contributes to the project.
An evening without a telephone
Another distinctive feature is the ban on taking photos and videos inside the restaurant. According to the owner, this measure has its roots in the Berlin club culture of the 1990s: “Back then, it was not a restriction, but a form of freedom: to escape from the world ‘out there’, to celebrate and enjoy without worries. Not allowing photos or videos is our attempt to create a space for everyone to enjoy in private”.
The large bar, which seats 28 people around the open kitchen, encourages communication in all directions. Wagner adds: “Many people think a restaurant is just for eating or drinking, but I see it as a place for communication. A café, a club or a restaurant provides a place where people meet and start interacting with each other. Phones, in a way, remove that connection,” he reflects.
In terms of equipment, they have a transparent pay structure that ensures equal pay regardless of gender, skin colour or origin.
Ingredients in the kitchen. Editorial credit: Nicole Gross.
Beyond the customer
“Our approach goes beyond the customer; we also consider the team and the producers,” says Wagner. “If we focus only on the customer, someone else pays the price. For example, we have implemented a code system: if a customer doesn’t treat the staff well, that team member doesn’t have to return to that table.
As for the team, they have a transparent salary structure that guarantees equal pay regardless of gender, skin colour or origin. In addition, they participate in trainings and workshops, and enjoy a 4-day work week. But that’s not all, they have also created a Guide of Conduct that establishes clear rules of communication and behaviour to prevent abuse of power, sexual harassment and discrimination.
The restaurant promotes a dining experience free of digital distractions, banning photos and videos to create an environment of private enjoyment.
Some jars of food. Editorial credit: Nicole Gross.
Other sustainable actions
In terms of environmental commitment, Nobelhart & Schmutzig excels in obtaining energy from sustainable sources and reducing carbon emissions in the transportation of ingredients. In addition, they implement collection points for local producers and promote the use of reusable containers such as steel milk cans. They also adopt eco-friendly practices such as using napkins and uniforms with recycled fabrics, reusing glassware and chinaware, as well as recycling wine corks.
They founded Die Gemeinschaft e.V. in 2017, an association that promotes a new food culture. They regularly collaborate with artists and their commitment to equality is reflected in innovative bathroom signage, which offers inclusive options for all. At the community level, they support the purchase of beeswax candles made by people with disabilities in Seewalde and are active in solidarity initiatives such as Suppe mit Sinn and the annual Wir haben es Satt event, which aims to transform the food and agricultural industries.
Billy Wagner and Micha Schäfer, project founder and culinary director respectively. Editorial credit: Anne Schönharting.
The restaurant has implemented green measures such as using energy from sustainable sources and reducing carbon emissions in the transportation of ingredients.
In addition, the Gemeinschaft Symposium event brought together more than 300 farmers and restaurants in Berlin to promote a new understanding of German food culture. Nobelhart & Schmutzig not only focuses on food, but invites diners to look at ingredients and culinary preparations from a fresh perspective. By placing people at the centre of all its decisions, it represents a true gastronomic and cultural revolution.
