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Fashion doesn’t just dress, it communicates. In her book La moda es revolución, Laura Opazo explores how clothing has been an ally in the struggle for freedom and equality. The book traces the history of iconic women such as Coco Channel and Frida Kahlo, who broke barriers through their garments.

We met with Laura Opazo, and she invites us to reflect on the social and cultural impact of fashion, demystifying its superficiality and highlighting it as an essential element to reflect the diversity that exists in the world.

In 2023 you published your second book, La moda es revolución (Fashion is revolution), what does this title mean, and could you tell us about how you understand this revolution?

The last century and a half has been the scene of great changes for women and the struggle for their rights. Throughout the 20th century, women have managed to join the world of work, have the right to universal suffrage, gain access to university, lead positions of power… And fashion has accompanied each of these moments. I wanted to make a retrospective of these important moments and their role in women’s wardrobes. I proposed it to the publishing house and luckily, they trusted me.

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The author narrates how relevant women in the world of music, art or fashion were brave and created their own narrative outside the norm. Editorial credit: Courtesy of Laura Opazo.

Fashion is often labelled as superficial. What would you say about this?

It’s true that fashion is often labelled as frivolous, but you have to differentiate between what fashion is. It has a profound impact on society and culture, and in the world or universe of fashion, everything that goes with it, which sometimes lends it a certain lightness.

From a historical and social perspective, I think it is a very interesting subject, because by looking at the way we have dressed through the ages, we can get a lot of information. For example, if we look at a photograph of a group of women in the 1930s and another from the 1980s or the present day, taken in the same place, we can deduce a lot about a specific historical, economic and social context.

Undoubtedly, fashion is not a loose verse, it is a silent narrator that allows us to understand many of the things that have happened over the years and that has accompanied all the social and cultural changes throughout history.

And not only that, fashion is a language through which, and in a context of freedom, which is important, people express their identity, creativity and state of mind. Let us not forget the importance of image in non-verbal communication.

Not to mention the fact that the fashion industry generates jobs and boosts the global economy.

Maybe you could play with that phrase by changing ‘revolution’ to ‘evolution’. Do you have the same opinion?

Not exactly. Both imply change, but from a different perspective. Evolution implies change, which usually happens organically. Revolution accelerates the process of change as a form of social protest, it forces it, being an overt statement of intent.

In the book you talk about women who have changed the world, such as Katharine Hepburn, Frida Kahlo, Coco Chanel, Madonna, Billie Eilish, Rosalía… What inspires you of all of them? Which would you say is your greatest reference?

In the book I tell the story of several women, in a period framed from the end of the 19th and 20th centuries to the present day. Each one has had to deal with different historical moments, and not all of them started from the same position, or had different visibility due to their profession or social status, others emerged from anonymity….

I believe that all of them, to a greater or lesser extent, have contributed and contributed something very valuable to history and all their gestures have allowed many women today to open our wardrobes and choose freely what we want to wear. Their gestures have given us wings. However big or small they may have been, they have been a victory.

How do you understand female empowerment and how do you relate it to fashion?

Fashion has accompanied us in a struggle to conquer our freedoms. By transgressing the codes imposed on each gender, we have protested, raised our voices and sought equality.

One of the first battles won against inequality was the liberation of the corset and access to trousers. This garment was forbidden by law to women, and incorporating it into everyday life was a real challenge to male dominance, both in sport and in working life.

As I mentioned before, fashion allows us to express ourselves and that gives us a lot of power. And although at times it has also taken away space, right now it celebrates diversity and inclusivity, giving a sense of belonging and worth to women who previously felt excluded by traditional standards of beauty.

One of the chapters of the book is titled ‘The Battles That Remain to Be Fought’. For those who haven’t read it, what are those battles?

There is still a long way to go, of course. Although the world has evolved, there are still some countries today with repressive laws in this regard. From our western perspective we sometimes forget, but the world is wide and the reality for many women is sometimes sadly different.

Also in our society, the cult of the body, the pressure on the aesthetic canon or ageism, are issues that are a yoke on our freedom and happiness, and many times it happens because we ourselves break the chains of self-demand. In the film The Substance this is very clearly reflected.

You have also recently launched the podcast ‘Fashion, Future and Action’, where you invite us to rethink the relationship between fashion, sustainability and responsible consumption. How did this project come about?

Yes, it’s a project I’m very excited about. ‘Fashion, Future and Action’ is a micro podcast, a series of 4 episodes, in which I interview different professionals from the sector, and in which we analyse the changes that the industry has undergone from an interesting perspective for the listener. The idea is to provide accurate and accessible information in an entertaining way.

What would you like to see happen in the fashion industry in the next ten years?

I would love to see the sector become more transparent, consistent and rigorous in its environmental and social commitments. I would also like to see more support for the recovery of traditional crafts and craftsmanship, which is true luxury and which is culture.

Throughout history, fashion has been a witness and protagonist of different cultural changes. As Laura Opazo tells us, each garment tells a story and each generation rewrites the meaning of dressing with identity and purpose. La moda es revolución is available at different physical and online points of sale.

Noelia Fernández

Journalist passionate about culture, literature, arts and travel. I am interested in being able to listen to others and immerse myself in their stories, seeking the essence of each experience and giving voice to many that are not heard. I have been writing for Horse since June 2021.