We travel to the west of Austria to discover palaces and various estates of the Esterházy family in an area of astonishing beauty and lifestyle.
Surrounded by vast green plains, Burgenland stands as Austria’s easternmost and least known region. It is also one of the most unique for its climate, with more than 300 days of sunshine a year. A territory that hides authentic architectural gems and a culture that invites us to practice a slow and conscious life. We travel there to discover it on a route that passes through Esterházy Palace, Forchtenstein Castle, the Bio-Landgut Esterházy organic farm and the Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park.
The Burgenland region: cultural riches and vineyards
On the border with Hungary, Slovenia and Slovakia, Burgenland covers an area of 3,962 square kilometres. That’s not much, when you think about it, and it’s precisely this accessible size that makes it unique: a place that’s easy to get around, comfortable and with warm people who make you feel at home even when you’re far away from home.
Beyond that comfort, the area stands out for its rich heritage, much of which belongs to the Esterházy family, owners of many emblematic buildings and palaces, which we will talk about later.
Eisenstad, the capital of Burgenland. Editorial credit: Austrian Tourism.
One of the first areas we visited in Burgenland was Eisenstad, the capital. Located just 60km from Vienna, this small town hides a special charm with low-rise buildings and houses, a pedestrianised old town, small boutiques and intimate cafés.
Esterházy Palace: home of the musician Joseph Haydn
Eisenstad’s greatest attraction is the Esterházy Palace, located in the centre of town. It was here that Joseph Haydn composed for Prince Esterházy for almost 30 years, and that exclusivity and elegance is still maintained today. Its imposing architecture stands out as soon as you arrive.
Built in the 13th century, it became the residence of the noble and influential Esterházy family. It houses multiple rooms that give us an insight into the family dynasty, although the best known is the Haydn Hall, dedicated to world-class concerts where Joseph Haydn himself composed melodies. Today the hall still impresses with its acoustics and baroque frescoes, and hosts many concerts and exclusive parties throughout the year.
Haydn Hall, inside the Esterházy Palace. Editorial credit: Austrian Tourism.
The Esterházy Palace also hosts several exhibitions. One of them is dedicated to Melinda Esterházy, where the life and legacy of this exceptional woman, who in 1994 created foundations to preserve the historical, cultural and artistic heritage of the territory, is revived. The other exhibition is about Haydn, and reveals new perspectives on his work by combining historical objects with contemporary art.
Forchtenstein Castle and its collection of Baroque art from Europe
Although its roots go back to the 13th century, Forchtenstein Castle became associated with the Esterházy family from 1620 onwards. It houses a collection of ancient art and a Treasure Chamber which houses the only collection of Baroque art in Europe that remains on its original site. There is an eclectic range of ethnography, arts and sciences from all over the world, including Augsburg automata and clocks, and stuffed flora and fauna.
All the treasures are classified into five themes, according to the criteria of antiquity: exotica, naturalia, scientifica, memorabilia (memorable) and mirabile (wonders).
The imposing Forchtenstein Castle. Editorial credit: Esterházy.
There is also a family archive room, with 180 drawers where the family kept their most intimate documents. In total there are an estimated 8km of archives. Until 2005 it was not possible to visit this room.
The organic farm Bio-Landgut Esterházy
Covering an area of 2,200 hectares, until now it was only a farm open to the public where fairs and family events were held. However, with the recently reopened Zum Gogosch restaurant and its new farm shop, it is now also considered a gastronomic meeting place. An ideal place to reconnect with nature, take a stroll and enjoy lunch or dinner in the restaurant.
Organic farm Bio-Landgut Esterházy. Editorial credit of the farm.
With ingredients from the farm itself, Zum Gogosch is based on organic farming, sustainable hunting and high-quality production. Dishes include organic chickpea curry with rice and coriander, organic beef burger with smoked sauce and barbecued vegetables, or local fish specialities from the regional fishery (preferably from Lake Neusiedl).
The organic wine cellar Weingut Esterházy
In addition to the organic farm, the Esterházy family owns a winery in Trausdorf an der Wulka, south of Eisenstad. Since 2019 they have been cultivating their vineyards organically thanks to gentle pruning and in cooperation with the nature conservation company Pannatura.
Exterior view of the organic wine cellar Weingut Esterházy. Editorial credit: Tourism Austria.
Its vineyards are spread across six different wine-growing communities: Grosshöflein, Sankt Georgen, Rust, Sankt Margarethen, Eisenstadt and Oslip. This results in a wide variety of soils and microclimates. This was explained to us during the guided tour of the winery, where we also enjoyed a wine tasting.
Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
It is the largest steppe lake in Central Europe, and just by arriving you get the feeling of being in an immense and at the same time perfectly cared for place. A natural treasure between Austria and Hungary, the 300 km² lake is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This nature park is the largest steppe lake in Central Europe. Editorial credit: Austrian Tourism.
The lake is home to flora and fauna typical of Alpine, Asian and Mediterranean areas, such as grey cows and white donkeys, as well as 340 species of birds that can be spotted from various vantage points.
The lake is surrounded by wide bathing beaches, cosy traditional taverns and picturesque squares, making this an ideal place to unwind and spend free time in nature.
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All in all, Burgenland is an ideal destination for a relaxing weekend getaway. Beyond the selected places, we recommend staying at the Hotel Galántha (located in Eisenstad) and eating at the hotel’s restaurant or at Henrici.
