If you have ever imagined fairytale villages, endless forests and wooden houses with flowers in the windows, you were probably thinking of the German Black Forest.
This region of the Black Forest, in the southwest of Germany, right on the border with France and Switzerland, brings together many of the landscapes and traditions that we usually associate with the Germanic country. From the famous cuckoo clocks and red pom-pom hats, to dense forests, hearty cuisine and a strong commitment to sustainability.
Our tour begins in Freiburg, a vibrant, eco-friendly city, and will end in elegant Baden-Baden. Along the way, we will explore charming villages, protected nature parks, local gastronomy and viewpoints offering spectacular views.
Freiburg: the green gateway to the Black Forest
Just an hour from Basel airport, the journey to the heart of the Black Forest begins with a welcome to Freiburg, a university town where history, sustainability and landscape coexist naturally. Although one of the oldest universities in Germany was founded in 1435, and we see many young people, it is a city that breathes tranquility and calm.
Every morning the Freiburg market brings together hundreds of people looking for fresh, seasonal produce. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
Here, bicycles reign uncontested and every corner is designed to dialogue with nature rather than to dominate it. The center revolves around a monumental figure: the Freiburg Cathedral, whose 116-meter tower has defied the sky since the 16th century. It is considered one of the masterpieces of European Gothic, and its interior houses a set of stained glass windows that were saved during World War II.
Every morning, except Sundays and holidays, the square surrounding the cathedral is transformed into a market of fresh and seasonal produce. At this time of year, white asparagus and strawberries take pride of place among the stalls, celebrating the richness of the land in every season. To walk through Freiburg is also to be carried away by the current of its Bächle (water channels), and perhaps, as local legend has it, to end up finding Freiburgian love by accidentally stepping in them. True or not, the game adds a charming touch to the walk.
From Alte Wache you can taste local wines while enjoying views of the market square. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
To toast with regional flavor, just cross the square and enter the Alte Wache, an old sentry box converted into a temple of local wine. With more than 130 references of the region, the place invites you to taste the land in every sip. Among all its proposals, one stands out for its originality and freshness: the Kalte Sofie, a wine slush ideal for the spring and summer seasons.
From the old red light district to a walk with charm
Following the canal through the old town, we come to one of the most characterful areas of Freiburg. The former tanners’ and fishermen’s quarter, also known for its past as the red light district, has been completely transformed. Today it is one of the most picturesque corners of the city, with cobblestone streets, bright colors that illuminate and half-timbered houses that border the water.
Left: Konviktstrasse, whose origin dates back to the 11th century and is now a shopping area. Right: Klein Venedig, Little Venice, where artisans once had their workshops and used the canals to work. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
Local stores, cafes, artists’ studios and boutiques have flourished here, where a creative air is in the air. To walk around this area is to stop and window shop, taste a cake on a terrace or just sit by the canal and relax.
The taste of local gastronomy and beer
Dishes such as schäufele (pork shoulder) or schupfnudeln (thick potato noodles) are part of the daily menu. Smoked sausages and the famous Black Forest ham are also frequently found. In addition, the star to try before you leave is the Black Forest cake, an irresistible classic of layered chocolate, cream and cherries with a touch of liqueur.
In Freiburg, the gastronomic offer combines culinary excellence and sustainable commitment. The Michelin-starred and green Jacobi stands out for its innovative Nova-Regio cuisine using local ingredients. Zur Wolfshöhle offers a sophisticated fusion of French and Austrian tradition, while the classic Zirbelstube at the Colombi Hotel offers elegance and French technique in a refined ambience. Lichtblick, on the other hand, focuses on regional authenticity with seasonal dishes full of flavor; and for those looking for a more conscious option, Adelhaus offers organic and vegetarian cuisine.
When the good weather sets in in Freiburg, terraces flourish as a natural extension of the cityscape. Among the most popular are the Biergartens, open spaces where local beer, local food and social life come together. It is here that the city reveals its most relaxed and summery side. The Kastaniengarten, for example, overlooks the Schlossberg hillside, with wooden tables and unbeatable views, while the Hausbrauerei Feierling, with its beer brewed on site, is an essential stop for those who want to savor traditional beer.
Trails and sustainable future
From the heart of the old town, one of the most picturesque routes into the greenery starts right where the city walls end: at the Swabian Gate, one of the two historic entrances that still stand the test of time. According to legend, a man wanted to buy Freiburg by paying with sacks of salt, but his wife, suspicious, filled them with stones. When the deception was discovered, the deal was undone and the city was saved. Today, the old tower holds both that history and the beginning of a hike that offers some of the most beautiful views of the trip.
Views of one of Freiburg’s old entrance and exit gates. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
The trails that ascend the Schlossberg, between wooded areas and the remains of an ancient castle now lost, invite you to walk leisurely, breathing the fresh air that comes from the valleys. From the top you can enjoy views of the city, the surrounding vineyards and the solar panels. Because yes, we will see them in every house of every town and village, no matter how remote it is, and that is a good sign.
It is a spectacle to be able to see how the vineyards envelop different areas of the Black Forest. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
This more eco-friendly future is materializing just a few minutes from the center, in the Vauban district. Built on the site of a former French military barracks, this district is now an international model of sustainable urban planning. The streets are designed for pedestrians and bicycles; cars are parked on the periphery, and community life is dominated by shared gardens, playgrounds and neighborhood markets.
Green City Hotel, in the Vauban district. On days away you get a regional ticket to use public transports. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
The homes follow passive construction, solar energy and energy efficiency standards. Some even produce more energy than they consume, but Vauban is not only a green neighborhood, they also strive for a more inclusive society. That’s why their main hotel, Green City Hotel, represents both concepts, keeping ecology and the inclusion of people with functional diversity in the team. This neighborhood is perfect for architects and urban planners to get inspired and learn about the evolution process with expert guides such as Steffen Ries from Innovation Academy.
On the way to the heart of the Black Forest
We leave Freiburg to enter the Black Forest by route 500, a little longer, but that makes us enjoy the interior of the forest. Until our next destination we observe the traditional houses of the mountain villages, and one of those that is mandatory to stop and see it in detail is Triberg. In the area we find some of the highest waterfalls in Germany, and its trails are well maintained to explore on foot or by bicycle. It also has the oldest large cuckoo clock, an icon in the area.
The cuckoo clock created by Josef Dold. Every one and a half hours the cuckoo appears. Editorial credit: Hochschwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.
Here, and in nearby villages such as Schonach or Schonachbach, these watches are made by hand and passed down from generation to generation, for example, the Rombach & Haas workshop. Meanwhile, five minutes away, towards Schönwald, we find the largest clock house in the world.
To rest and enjoy the trip, the Hotel Ochsen in Schönwald awaits us surrounded by flowers and with more than two centuries of history. It is a family-run hotel, managed since 1796 by the Martin family, and offers tranquility and relaxation while enjoying local and seasonal cuisine.
Rural soul of the Black Forest
The road continues to take us through valleys and hillsides where, in this season, the green seems to be endless. The journey continues towards Gutach, where one of the cultural jewels of the tour is located: the Black Forest Open Air Museum Vogtsbauernhof.
The Vogtsbauernhof museum is an example of Freiburg’s country houses. Editorial credit Magazine Horse.
More than a museum, it is an immersion in the daily life of the peasants who inhabited this region during the last four centuries. The visit becomes much more interesting if you hire a local guide, such as Corina Tinco, who with her enthusiasm and knowledge recreates history in a lively way. From how pom-pom hats were woven to why the houses were built with such low ceilings.
The central building, the Vogtsbauernhof farm is a tangible sample of what life was like in the heart of the forest, surrounded by animals, crops and marked seasons. Around it, there are other buildings such as mills, stables, a chapel, sawmill or a small distillery, recreating the traditional architecture of the old farming villages.
The workshops are another of the great attractions of the place, always with previous reservation. Here it is possible to learn, hands-on, how peasant bread was made, or how artisan butter was churned. These are simple experiences, yes, but they make you experience and discover ancient actions.
The dining room of one of the museum’s old houses. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
A curiosity that many people notice during a tour of the region are the religious images, such as the crucifix, that decorate the facades. They are not there for aesthetics. These signs spoke, centuries ago, of the religious confession of the family that inhabited the house, in a time when there were disputes between Catholics and Protestants.
Gengenbach: a film village with a medieval view
Just a few kilometers from Gutach, we reach another fairytale village, Gengenbach. The heart of the town beats in its Marktplatz where the town hall, built in 1784, awaits. In winter, the building takes center stage as it is transformed into the world’s largest Advent Calendar. Every night, from December 1 to 24, one of its windows is illuminated, turning it into a magical spectacle. It is a small village, but its old town maintains its medieval charm.
Gengenbach’s central square with the town hall on the right. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
Walk through streets like Engelgasse or Höllengasse, both flanked by half-timbered houses, balconies full of flowers. No wonder Tim Burton chose this place as one of the settings for Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, depicting the house of Augustus Gloop. For a stopover and overnight stay, the Hotel Die Reichsstadt, located on Engelgasse itself, is an option that combines traditional architecture with the comfort of modern accommodation.
Between forest baths and infinite vineyards
We leave behind the medieval air of Gengenbach and enter one of the greenest routes, the road takes us through the Black Forest National Park, an ideal area for hiking. Before we reach our next destination, we make an essential stop at the Berghotel Mummelsee, next to the Mummelsee lake. Here you can stretch your legs, have a coffee overlooking the water, and if you’re lucky, watch the mist roll down and caress the surface of the lake creating an almost magical atmosphere.
Forest bathing (Wu Wei Wasserweg), is an experience where you can get into nature and reconnect with yourself. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
Being so rooted in the nature that surrounds us gives us peace while recharging our energy. We travel to discover the Black Forest, but also to disconnect from the noise that disturbs us during our routines. In this area, a highly recommended practice is to climb the Brandmatt, and take a walk through the Sasbachwalden forest while your inner energy flows to balance itself. With guide Hans Steiner you breathe, meditate, move slowly and feel present. You only hear your shoes crunching as you step on the forest earth, the songs of the birds and how the wind speaks to you through the trees. An experience where the protagonist is you.
Der Engel hotel and restaurant next to one of the traditional costumes of the area. Editorial credit. Horse Magazine
After this zen break, we reach the village of Sasbachwalden, hidden among vineyard-covered hills. Here life goes by at a different pace. For food and lodging, Hotel Der Engel is a safe bet, a hotel with more than 250 years of history, lovingly managed by the Decker-Mamber family for generations. Its restaurant combines traditional Baden cuisine with French touches, always with local products and a careful presentation.
Alde Gott wine bar next to the building offering to enjoy wine and small plates on its Weitblick Weinbar terrace. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
And when evening falls, don’t forget the wine tasting on the terrace of Alde Gott. With a glass in your hand and the golden hills of the sunset in front of you, it is easy to understand why this region is so enchanting. The view is lost among vineyards that never seem to end, and the wine, locally produced, becomes the perfect companion for that postcard. If you prefer to enjoy the wine, but from up close, you also have the option of the Schnapsbrunnen. Small fountains or stalls where you can taste local liquors in exchange for a few coins.
Sleeping among vineyards
After a day of nature, wine and trails comes the night and if you ever dreamed of sleeping one night inside a wine barrel, this is the place. Nestled on the slopes of the Hornisgrinde is one of the most original accommodations of the trip: the Schlafen im Weinfass. The rooms are huge wine barrels of 8,000 liters, converted with care and charm into small wooden cabins.
Barrels sit next to the vineyards to transform the nights stay. Editorial credit: Schlafen im Weinfass.
Each unit consists of two connected barrels: one is the bedroom, with double bed and heating, and the other functions as a dining room with bathroom and ecological sink. In addition, there is an outdoor shower near the farm, for those who need it. But the most special thing is outside: the vineyards surrounding the barrels.
For longer overnight stays in Sasbachwalden the perfect choice are the Oma Ludwin houses. These are two wooden houses with an ecological architecture, built with the HOLZ100 system, using local wood without chemicals.
The Oma Ludwin houses are located on high ground from where you can enjoy views of Sasbachwalden. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
The houses are spacious, ideal for up to six people, as they have two large bedrooms and a loft perfect for accommodating more family or friends. They also have a Finnish sauna and an outdoor jacuzzi on the terrace, from where you can enjoy the views of the village and the mountains.
Baden-Baden, the stately jewel of the Black Forest
After days of nature, fairytale villages and endless vineyards we arrived at the last stop of this trip: Baden-Baden. It has been known since Roman times for its thermal waters, and was for centuries the favorite destination of European emperors, artists and aristocrats.
One of the old rooms of the Casino. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
One of the must-sees is the Baden-Baden Casino, a 19th century architectural gem that many compare to the halls of Versailles. Chandeliers, frescoes and marble continue to dress the place and you can visit it in the mornings without gambling through guides like Guillermina Negretti-Dreier. Right next door, the Trinkhalle invites you to touch the thermal waters directly from its fountain. This gallery with Corinthian columns and mythological frescoes is part of the Kurhaus, and combines health, art and history in one place. In front of it, a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I guards the area.
For those who enjoy culture, the Festspielhaus Baden-Baden, Germany’s largest opera house, is another treasure. Its neo-baroque facade, which was once the train station, gives way to one of the country’s most important musical temples. For gastronomy, the M10 restaurant offers traditional specialties from Baden and the Black Forest, prepared with fresh products. It is located on the old market square, very close to the thermal baths, and is a quiet place to enjoy local dishes.
The M10 restaurant is located near the Baden-Baden thermal baths and offers local gastronomy. Editorial credit: Magazine Horse.
But Baden-Baden is not only experienced in its monuments. You can also feel it walking along the Lichtentaler Allee, a promenade along the river Oos, surrounded by centuries-old trees, manicured gardens and stately homes. As a final touch, horse racing is very important in the city. The Iffezheim racecourse on the outskirts of the city is filled with fancy hats, betting and champagne.
The exterior of the Trinkhalle building, where frescoes of legends and myths are displayed. Editorial credit: Baden-Baden Kur & Tourismus GmbH, C. Duepper.
We say goodbye to the Black Forest, taking with us the experience of a territory where vineyards decorate the hillsides and mark a slow rhythm between mountains. It is a celebration of the local, the artisanal and the seasonal. In addition, sustainability is glimpsed in accommodations built with natural wood from the area, zero kilometer gastronomy, or the thought of integrating nature into the city without damaging it.
