We propose an itinerary that can comfortably be done in 6 days to explore the south, where you can spot whales, enjoy baths in geothermal waters, understand how volcanoes form, or get wet from the force of impressive waterfalls.
It seems incredible that an island can have an incandescent interior while on the surface, we might be treading on ice. But Iceland is like that, a land of contrasts, of wild nature, and extreme landscapes. We can go from wearing short sleeves in the morning to needing a raincoat at noon due to an unexpected downpour and end the afternoon walking on a glacier. And it is precisely these changes of scenery – these extremes – that make Iceland what it is, a fascinating island dominated by nature but which its inhabitants have managed to take advantage of. Proof of this is that more than a quarter of the country’s electricity is produced with geothermal energy.
Iceland’s territory is one of the most geologically active on the planet since it extends on both sides of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge (a crack between continental plates) and is located on a volcanic hotspot. This combination of factors has led to pronounced volcanism and geothermal activity which are ideal for producing energy cleanly.
Reykjavik, the capital
The city center of Reykjavik can easily be explored on foot. It is worth visiting the Hallgrimskirkja church located in an imposing cement building that resembles the basalt columns of Vik’s black beach; the Harpa, an original seafront auditorium with hundreds of panels that reflect light in shades of blue, or strolling along Laugavegur, the oldest commercial artery which features stretches painted on the ground that will delight the little ones: a giant zebra crossing or a hopscotch with 100 squares. Don’t forget to stop for a delicious hot dog at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, a street stand that gained fame since Bill Clinton ate a hot dog there in 2004 despite being on a diet.
Hallgrimskirkja Church and the Harpa auditorium. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
A little further from the center, we find the Perlan museum located in a futuristic building consisting of a huge glass dome resting on six tanks (each of them can contain around 4 million liters of geothermal water). The “pearl” is formed by a steel structure with a hollow frame inside, and it is the Perlan’s heating system. On cold winter days, hot water flows through the steel frame, while in summer cold water flows.
Interior of the Perlan Museum and panoramic views from the Perlan Museum. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
In addition to the building itself, the Perlan is worth visiting for several reasons, including the world’s first indoor ice cave, 100 meters long and built with over 350 tons of snow, or its spectacular circular rooftop offering a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view. There are also other attractions, such as the planetarium showing northern lights and the full-scale reproduction of Látrabjarg, one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs.
From Reykjavik’s old harbor, boats depart daily for whale watching. On these excursions, which usually last between two and three hours, it is possible to observe different types of whales, although the most common are humpbacks, as well as dolphins and porpoises. Marine biologists on board indicate to us in which direction to look so as not to miss anything, and while we wait, they delight us with curious facts about marine mammals.
Whale watching from a boat. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
The Golden Circle, Iceland’s essence in a day
Starting from Reykjavik, our first stop is the Kerid crater. Although originally thought to have formed by a major eruption, recent studies confirm that it was a cone volcano that erupted and emptied all the magma reserve, so the cone collapsed on itself. The water seen inside it is at the same level as the sea and does not come from rain.
Crater. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
We can walk around the crater and then descend to the water to get an idea of the size of the volcano. Our route continues towards the geothermal baths of Laugarvatn Fontana, approximately halfway along the Golden Circle. It is a place where visitors and locals go to experience authentic Icelandic nature while relaxing in the warm geothermal pools and natural steam baths. Fontana is located next to a beautiful lake, Laugarvatn, where you can also swim (in summer it is usually at a temperature of 15ºC). Here, people still bake rye bread in the hot sand by the lake, where trout are caught and smoked on a nearby farm. Both the bread and the trout can be tasted in the spa’s restaurant.
Laugarvatn Fontana geothermal baths. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Most of Iceland’s vegetables are grown in geothermally heated greenhouses. One of the largest tomato producers on the island – 2 tons a day, all year round – is Fridheimar. Besides being able to visit their greenhouses, it is worth going there because you can eat in their restaurant – located precisely inside a greenhouse.
Fridheimar, restaurant located in a tomato greenhouse. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
The tables are arranged among tomato plants, and as an added curiosity, all the dishes on the menu contain tomato as the main ingredient: soup, skewers, pasta, beer, cocktails, and even cake and ice cream. Also, if you visit on cold days, the heat of the greenhouse is a good way to warm up before continuing with the route. The owners also breed Icelandic horses, a unique breed in the world that we can spot at various points along the Ring Road (the one we follow for the Golden Circle).
Icelandic horses. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Our next stop is the Geysir geothermal area, where the Great Geysir is located, which gave its name to this type of natural phenomenon, although it has been inactive for years (tourists threw so many stones that they blocked the entrance). Luckily, just a few steps away we find Strokkur Geysir which fortunately is still active. It is not as spectacular as the Great Geysir, but it is still impressive to see how the hot water is propelled at more or less regular intervals between 8 and 10 minutes to a height of 30 meters.
In the geothermal area of the Haukadalur valley, we find Geysir, one of the most impressive in the world. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Just 10 km from there, we can also feel, even more intensely, the force of the water. Gulfoss waterfall is one of the most striking and surprising in Iceland thanks to its double waterfall of 32 meters high and 20 meters wide. Gullfoss is famous not only for its impressive power but also for the rainbows that form in its spray on sunny days, another element to add to an already incredible view.
Waterfall. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
The route can end at Thingvellir National Park, the only UNESCO World Heritage site on Iceland’s mainland. The park is located in a fault valley caused by the separation of two tectonic plates – the North American and the Eurasian – with rocky cliffs and fissures like the huge Almannagjá fault.
Vik Beach, Thingvellir National Park. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
South Coast, waterfalls, black beaches, and volcanoes
To get an idea of how Iceland was formed millions of years ago, of its volcanic activity, and its earthquakes, it is recommended to visit the Lava Center – in Vik -, an interactive educational exhibition of high technology that explains in a simple and interesting way why Iceland is as it is. At first glance, from the same center, you can see the volcanoes that are still active. And to experience a volcanic eruption up close – but without the risks that entails – the Lava Show (also in Vik) is a unique show in the world that overheats real lava and pours it into an exhibition hall full of spectators.
Near Vik, on the coast, we find Reynisfjara, which is Iceland’s black beach, with its distinctive dark sand formed by basalt – a mineral created from the rapid cooling of lava. The huge wall with basalt columns on one side, the waves crashing forcefully on the shore, and the wind that usually lashes this area make it a landscape from another world. In fact, the basalt rock formations are so special that they have been the setting for some episodes of Game of Thrones.
Another curious place is the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which can be completely surrounded, as a wide cave has formed behind the 60-meter waterfall. We have to be well prepared with raincoats and shoes with good grip because we will get soaked.
Seljalandsfoss waterfall. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Where we will also get wet, if we get too close, is at the Skógafoss waterfall, located on the Skógá river. Clearly visible from the road, it is one of the largest in Iceland, with a width of 25 meters and a drop of 60 meters. Skógafoss can also be seen from above, as a steep and very long staircase leads to an observation platform, although we have to be prepared as the climb is equivalent to about 20 floors.
Skógafoss waterfall. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Reykjanes Peninsula
To end the trip, a good idea is to visit Krýsuvík, an impressive landscape of geothermal phenomena, full of hot springs, boiling mud pools, steam vents, and the vibrant reds, yellows, and greens of mineral-rich terrain. Located in the middle of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge fissure (south of Reykjanes), the main geothermal sections in Krysuvik are Seltun, Hverahvammur, and Hverahlid. Here steam columns rise towards the sky and bubbling mud pools create a rhythmic symphony and a very characteristic smell.
Krýsuvík geothermal landscape. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
A few kilometers away are two of Iceland’s most impressive lakes: Graenavatn and Kleifarvatn, remains of explosion craters formed during volcanic eruptions. Lake Graenavatn is like a huge mirror reflecting the sky, surrounded by a landscape of black sand that seems to come from a science fiction movie. Here you breathe peace and experience communion with nature like in few places.
Graenavatn Lake. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
You cannot leave Iceland without bathing in the Blue Lagoon, one of the country’s most famous geothermal spas and considered one of the 25 wonders of the world. It is located in a lava field, facing Mount Þorbjörn, and the water is supplied by the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant. The whitish color of the water is due to the large amount of silica in its composition, in addition to algae and seawater. This, together with the fact that the pool is always surrounded by steam (the water is about 38ºC), gives it a unique mysterious appearance.
Blue Lagoon geothermal spa. Photograph: Felix Lorenzo
Children from 2 years old can bathe in the spa (entry is free up to 11 years old), and the properties of the water are ideal for skin problems. Beyond its medicinal properties, the Blue Lagoon is a magnificent place to disconnect, relax, and enjoy the landscape.
How to get there:
Icelandair offers direct flights from Madrid, Alicante, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, and Tenerife South to Reykjavik International Airport, and as a novelty, between April and October 2023, it will also operate direct flights from Barcelona.
Where to stay:
Icelandair has hotels in various parts of the island, with Nordic design and very comfortable. The Reykjavik Natura overlooks the Perlan museum, is very close to the geothermal beach, has a spa, free parking, and is family-friendly.
