Writer Gloria Gallo
Comfort, resurgence of classic lines reflecting the DNA of most of the firms and creativity by the usual designers, summarize the proposals seen during the Men’s Fashion Weeks in London, Milan and Paris. Collections that do not disappoint and present us with a season dominated by oversize coats with dropped shoulders, omnipresent bomber jackets, the revival of the parka as a warm garment, prints ranging from figurative to abstract and the absolute prominence of thick knitwear; which however leave room for other masculine resources such as tweed, checks and stripes.
A strong adaptation with slim cut lines and “vintage” winks, defined and often easy to wear, presenting a sober and modern winter dominated by traditional blacks and grays with strong emphasis on tailoring and silhouettes; to which are added other warmer autumn shades such as blue, green, lush burgundy, and the always elegant camel.
1. SPORT DELUXE
A trend that does not distinguish between genders, wears sporty garments made of luxurious materials and finds in the sweatshirt the focus of elegance and identity of avant-garde fashion. For the Fall-Winter 2014/15 season, the sweatshirt embodies just that. Whether printed with historical majesty as in Dolce & amp; Gabbana, boasting slogans, or made entirely in sheepskin, leather or PVC, the sweatshirt will be the blank canvas capable of showing the style of the wearer.
2. THICK POINT
Monochromatic or multicolored, fretted or printed, plain or showing off voluminous braids, Fair Isle style, embroidered, fitted or oversized… It’s all about knitwear next fall. From understated monochromes to bold prints, knitwear is a winter must-have and promises to keep you warm from the winter chill.
3. DOUBLE BUTTONING
Double-breasted suits are once again sharpening their silhouette to become fashionable for another season. From the boxy silhouettes of the 1980s to the armor of the 1950s, the double-breasted jacket has been reinterpreted in countless ways. This season, its versatility and the sheer breadth of these adaptations confirm that the double-breasted jacket is here to stay.
4. SKINNY SKINNY PANTS
Although blazers are usually the protagonists when it comes to adaptations, for the Fall-Winter 2014/2015 season, pants take the second place. The catwalks confirm that the trend for skinny skinny pants will not be short-lived, materializing them in leather and pairing them with blazers for an irresistible casual chic. It’s all about the width of the leg!
5. BOMBER JACKETS
The most versatile garment in the men’s closet confirms its enduring success for yet another season. Whether for everyday casual looks or for luxurious occasions, the bomber jacket in leather, embroidered, woven, college style or lined with sheepskin, dominates with a myriad of options.
6. CAMEL CHIC
One of the most elegant shades of the color palette, for men and women, dyes the most distinguished outerwear of the coming season. And despite also appearing as the color of extravagant jackets and tailored suits, coats are the protagonists, both in their classic line and in oversize sizes and rounded shoulders.
7. OVERSIZE COATS
Dropped shoulders and large dimensions dominate the coat trend for next winter. The pea coat, the classic double-breasted sailor coats, always so popular in winter seasons gain points against ovoid silhouettes; while longer, oversized coats are more like capes. Casual and formal, next season’s outerwear is leaning toward oversized oversizes in a variety of fabrics and shades.
8. VERSATILE LEATHER
There can’t be a winter season without this versatile tanned leather. Tough and supple, leather comes in fine, shiny or matte looks to emphasize the next season’s quirkiest silhouettes, as well as to accent fine figures in the form of pants as seen at Saint Laurent.
9. WARM SKIN
Whether it is the return of the Vikings or that of the Medieval Lord as sources of inspiration, one thing is certain, the men of the coming winter will be wearing furs. Royal, hidalgo or barbarian, the important thing is that tomorrow’s knights will be decked out in animal furs, like their predecessors before them. But if you prefer something more discreet, the return of sheepskin or sheepskin in multiple details will allow you to be fashionable without losing in the attempt.
10. ABUNDANT PRINTS
Polka dots, silkscreens, flowers, molecules and even tiny rays like those seen on Neil Barrett, multiply on fabrics to print a variety of garments. While individual iconographic motifs such as those presented by Dolce & Gabbana are printed on sweatshirts, suits, trench coats and knitwear alike. Prints and patterns vary throughout the coming season. Whether typically masculine-inspired like keys or armor, or sporting delicate irises, prints are the fashion statement you’re looking for.
11. JAQUE MATE
The ongoing love affair of plaid (checks) and fashion seems to be never-ending and relentless. Lumberjack checks, tweed, tartan, Prince of Wales prints or more graphic checks continue to feature in everything from outerwear tailoring to the odd kilt seen on Alexander McQueen.
12. LUSH VELVET
Softly silky yet structured, velvet presents itself as the most iconic fabric of the Fall-Winter 2014/2015 season. Perfectly suited to channel both the DNA feel of tailoring and the dimensions of the proposed outerwear and winter shades, velvet embodies much of the qualities that will dress the coming season.
Images courtesy of style.com
